Houdao · Da Hong Pao Wuyi Rock Tea

In San Keng Liang Jian, filtered light and mist settle in the shaded ravines. The area's loose, weathered gravel lies between rock faces and flowing water. These gardens provide the setting for Houdao’s full, soft body.

In the approach associated with tea maker Chen Ansheng, the touch of the fresh leaf guides the green-making. Two rounds of gentle shaking in the bamboo sieve allow the leaves to develop their aroma. The medium charcoal roast then progresses in three rounds. The first settles the fragrance, the second steadies the liquor, and the third brings the roast and rock character into a coherent finish.

Houdao’s dry strips are tight, even and dark brown. Drink the clear orange-yellow liquor while warm for ripe fruit and flowers. As the liquor cools, the aroma becomes cleaner and more floral, with a sweetness reminiscent of pollen. The tea feels full and silky as it goes down, with fruit carried in the liquor and a gentle grip that lingers.

The infused leaf is thick, soft and even. The series gift box echoes the texture of the tea with diagonal embossing, a bronze-inspired motif, Chinese red, silver-grey and the gilded Houdao characters. The gift box illustrates the series design. Check the product options for the pack you are buying.

• Niulankeng. The slopes on either side form a narrow V. Gardens run along the floor and up the cliff sides, where the limited planting space helps explain the site's reputation for scarce Rou Gui.
• Shuiliandong. Springs spill from the rock above Water Curtain Cave. Spray and shade keep the surrounding valley vegetation lush. Local tasting descriptions often emphasise fresh, clear aromas.
• Jiulongke. The long, winding passage runs between steep cliffs. The enclosed, humid setting is associated with soft, clean and gently sweet styles.

• Liuxiangjian. This cool, narrow stream valley connects with Daoshuikeng. Local tradition links its name, the Gorge of Flowing Fragrance, with the Ming poet Xu Bo. It is also associated with the named tea Buzhichun.
• Sanyangfeng. The high ground is cool and often misty. Full, sweet liquor is a useful tasting reference for the site.
• Matouyan. Steep gullies cut into relatively open rock slopes. The gardens get more light than the deep pits. Aromatic intensity and a firmer grip can be useful comparisons when tasting its teas.

1. Picking. A traditional spring picking standard is one bud with three or four leaves once they are sufficiently developed, usually around April or May. Makers avoid picking in rain or while dew is still on the leaves.
2. Withering. The fresh leaves are laid out so some moisture can escape and the leaf becomes supple. On suitable days the leaves are withered in the sun. When conditions are unsuitable, a withering room and controlled warmth can be used.
3. Green-making. Repeated shaking alternates with resting. The moving leaves gently bruise one another at the edges. As partial oxidation progresses, reddish edges and floral or fruity aromas begin to emerge. Tea makers adjust the work to the weather and the condition of the leaf.

1. Fixation. High heat stops enzymatic oxidation once the tea maker judges that the aroma has developed enough.
2. Rolling. Working the softened leaves into tight strips gives rock tea its shape and affects how quickly the liquor develops in the pot.
3. Roasting. After drying and sorting, the tea may be roasted in several rounds. Heat and rests between rounds help reduce residual moisture and develop the aroma and body. A carefully judged roast brings the cultivar’s aromas into balance.

Roasting helps prepare a spring-made tea for storage throughout the year. Taste the finished tea again as the liquor cools to see how the warm roast, floral or fruit notes, and texture come together.

Rou Gui often shows an assertive cassia-like fragrance. Shui Xian is known for a mellower body with orchid-like fragrance. Da Hong Pao has a historic association with the mother-tree site at Jiulongke and is also used for commercial Wuyi rock teas blended to a particular aromatic style.

Zhengyan, Banyan and Zhoucha describe different growing settings. The site is one part of the comparison. Harvest, cultivar, green-making, roast and storage all influence the finished cup. Look at the twisted dry leaf, the brightness of the liquor, the aroma, the texture and the infused leaf across several rounds.