How Zhengshantang black tea is made

High mountains, clouds and mist are part of the landscape of our Wuyi spring teas. The leaves develop in this environment, then pass through the hands of tea makers who shape their aroma and flavour. This account follows the spring black-tea process described by Zhengshantang, from fresh leaf to the final tasting.

The quality of the fresh leaf matters from the start. In this spring-tea production account, the tea is harvested once a year in spring, and the leaves are picked and processed on the same day to retain their fresh character. Picking avoids rainy days and leaves still wet with dew. Careful selection at the garden is the first step towards the flavour that tea makers and tea drinkers look for.

Withering removes some moisture and softens the leaves. As their condition changes, the fresh grassy smell gradually recedes. Methods include natural, controlled indoor and sunlight withering. Tongmu’s humidity, cool conditions and frequent rain make natural withering difficult to control. In the process described here, controlled indoor withering is the main method, with sunlight as a supplement. The tea maker watches the leaf condition to prepare it for rolling and later aroma development.

Rolling twists and shapes the leaves into strips. The described sequence has three parts: an initial rolling, loosening the clumps, and rolling again by hand. It breaks leaf cells, allowing their contents to interact during enzymatic oxidation, while forming the finished leaf shape. Leaf juices also reach the surface, influencing how the tea extracts when brewed.

Oxidation of leaf compounds increases as rolling begins. Tea makers traditionally call this stage fermentation; it is central to black tea’s colour, aroma and taste. Temperature, humidity, oxygen, duration and the amount of leaf all need attention. In the suspended-basket method described by Zhengshantang, baskets are hung at about two-thirds of the room’s height, with a channel through the centre of the leaves to help air move vertically. Differences in temperature and humidity within the room help the tea maker manage the process.

Drying is the final processing stage. Heat deactivates the enzymes driving oxidation, removes moisture and fixes the leaf shape while further developing the aroma. The maker must balance temperature, time and airflow: inadequate drying can leave damp or grassy notes, while excessive heat can lose delicate aromas. Exact conditions depend on the leaves and equipment, so careful judgement matters throughout this stage.

The work continues after processing. Zhengshantang’s account describes five successive professional tea evaluations, with Jiang Yuanxun, the 24th-generation inheritor of Lapsang Souchong, personally confirming the quality. Timing and care at every stage affect the taste and aroma. This final tasting brings together the Wuyi landscape, the production work and the craft passed from one generation of tea makers to the next.